Climate Talk: How Wine Regions Are Changing

What happens when Mother Nature shakes up your cellar?

Wine is a conversation—a dialogue between place, people, and the grape itself. Historically, it's been a predictable chat: Bordeaux knew its style, Marlborough had its crisp Sauvignon Blanc, and Central Otago proudly offered up Pinot Noir. But the climate? She's shaking things up and rewriting the rules entirely.

In New Zealand, the evidence is already in our glasses. Traditionally, we waited for March to start picking grapes. Now Waiheke Island is harvesting in late February—juicy, ripe bunches full of promise and potential. Marlborough’s iconic Sauvignon Blanc, once defined by crisp acidity, is becoming fuller, richer, and harvested earlier each season.

Climate change is expected to bring warmer, drier conditions to Marlborough, which accounts for 72% of New Zealand’s overall wine production. When rain does come, it is likely to be more intense, increasing risks of flooding and damage to crucial infrastructure. Marlborough is already known as one of New Zealand’s sunniest and driest regions, but it also faces vulnerability from earthquakes, with four major tectonic faults crisscrossing the area. 

Globally, altitude is increasingly a key ingredient for balance. The mountain vineyards around the globe including overlooking Florence in Tuscany are delivering wines of breath-taking elegance, perfect ripeness, and structured freshness. Mendoza's Malbec from ever-higher vineyards continues to impress with its vibrant, nuanced personality, despite the warming climate.

But let’s not gloss over the chaos. Burgundy battles relentless hailstorms; Stellenbosch navigates devastating droughts; Napa faces sudden, catastrophic frosts. These disruptions are forcing winemakers to innovate relentlessly—whether it’s frost protection measures, drought-resistant varietals, or thoughtful canopy management.

In another example, as we get more warm weather, we get earlier harvests yielding grapes with more sugar but low acidity. Too late a harvest, and the opposite problem occurs. “Harvest compression” means growers also compete for storage and labour capacity, placing additional pressure on the entire winemaking system.

These factors significantly impact the reliability and quality of wine. With a delicate product like wine, this is a serious concern for New Zealand’s reputation and a challenge for individual growers, many of whom operate in small, rural communities already struggling with labour and housing issues. Climate change intensifies these existing difficulties.

Viticulture is increasingly focused on ethical and sustainable approaches. Certifications like organic, biodynamic, and the prestigious B-Corp gold standard are no longer fringe.

Central Otago is moving Pinot Noir vineyards to higher, cooler elevations to preserve finesse. Hawke’s Bay and Northland, already known for their bold reds, are bravely exploring heat-loving grapes like Tempranillo and Montepulciano. Canterbury, thrilling Chardonnay is coming to light. 

Wine has always evolved, but climate change accelerates that evolution, making adaptability crucial. So, here's the takeaway: cherish your classics, but stay curious. Tomorrow’s iconic wines might just emerge from the vineyards most willing to embrace change and rethink tradition. Because the only constant in wine today is the willingness to keep learning, growing, and tasting our way forward.