Tesseron & Family Dinner at Onslow
120 years ago, in 1905, Abel Tesseron purchased vineyards in the Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne regions. For almost 100 years they were known as one of the finest distillers and blenders in the region, but their product was always sold to the big-name houses (Martell, Hennessey etc), who used these rare components to round out their best blends.
In 2003 family members decided to discontinue this practice, and all of Tesseron’s family cognacs would then be released under their own name. Tesseron have always had a reputation for holding large reserves of extremely old eaux-de-vie, kept in their thirteenth century crypt. The bottlings - which are always unique blends - are labelled as lot numbers, and are only available in miniscule quantities. Unlike Armagnac, which releases vintage bottlings each year, the beauty (and mystery) of Cognac is in the art of the blend.
In recent years, the Tesseron family have expanded their scope to become the owners of Pauillac’s superb Château Pontet-Canet; as well as Pym Rae - a premium Napa valley vineyard that was once the private estate of actor Robin Williams. They bring the same uncompromising dedication to quality winemaking as in their cognac business.
An evening hosted by one family business - Glengarry - was an opportunity to have an overview of the ‘Tesseron family’ range. The Tesseron range is exclusive to Glengarry and includes their first ever non-X.O. release - ‘Composition’. This Cognac was specifically designed and tested to be used in making the great classic cocktails such as a Sidecar. As we arrive at Onslow restaurant in Auckland, we’re served a Vieux Carré cocktail, with special home-made bitters and a twist of orange rind. It’s like a super-charged negroni, but with that extra depth and warmth from the cognac replacing the vermouth.
Tastes in what people are drinking go in cycles. An example - a few years ago Gin had its 15 minutes of fame. Trends will come and go… but some products seem immune. Bought, treasured and enjoyed by a select segment of customers, these bottles are often niche… but expect to be drinking some of the rarest, finest ‘taste sensations’ you’ll ever have.. IYKYK. Malt whisky would fall into this category. Both this and Cognac represent an exquisite marriage of craftsmanship and tradition.
As we sit, I’m salivating at the chance to try the two glasses that sit waiting. Lot 90 Cognac XO ‘Ovation’ is made from a blend of Ugni Blanc Grapes; Grande Champagne, Petite Champagne and Fins Bois aged between 10 to 15 years. The fragrance shows pineapple, pear and marmalade, with salted caramel, honey and baking spices. There’s a lightness of touch despite the obvious ‘attack’ on the palate. Rounded and smooth, it is a wonderful pairing to an entree dish of smoked duck breast with hazelnuts and cherry.
Lot 76 Cognac XO ‘Tradition’ is a blend of reserve stocks of Grande Champagne Cognac, matured in old casks, distilled in the mid 1970s, with an average age in excess of 35 years. This one has a specific creamy textural quality. Matthieu Chapoutier - the Director of Tesseron for APAC and the Middle East who is here to guide us through the evening, explains that Tesseron have a special method of leaving some of the yeast lees in the pot still during distillation to add this exact quality to the finished product. It is a fraught process as you risk it sticking and burning, and spoiling the whole batch.
At this point the two red wines are poured - Château Pontet Canet 2018, and Pym Rae Napa Valley 2017. The wines are both Cabernet Sauvignon-based, with a third of the Pauillac rounded out with Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Pym Rae has 17% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc. The main course is Scotch Fillet steak, with a rich mushroom custard - perfectly suited to these magnificent red blends.
Château Pontet Canet 2018 is another of those historic Bordeaux houses who have refused to sit on their laurels - moving to biodynamic farming practices when the Tesseron family took over in 1975, and now using a lighter touch in the winemaking too. This edition has 45% made in amphorae, whilst the other part is in new French oak. Compared to the big wines of a generation ago, that needed twenty years to soften, the wine seems ready to drink now with softer extraction (and therefore tannin). Beautifully fragrant with energy, tension and a balance of savoury and fruit flavours. A classic Bordeaux claret.
2017 was a tricky vintage for Napa - with many estates not making wine due to smoke taint from bush fires in the region. The Pym Rae seems to be free of any hint of that, however quantity is very low due to the careful crop control required that year. Napa reds are known to be quite rich and hedonistic in style, but this version has juicy raspberry and blackcurrant fruits to the fore, and plump, plush tannins. Firm but quite refined and a long, spicy finish.
The base wine for Lot 53 Cognac XO ‘Perfection’ is made from both Ugni Blanc and very rare Colombard grapes - resulting in a range of Grande Champagne eaux-de-vie. Those components are all 50 years old at least! It is an extraordinary liquid - quite breathtaking. Complex, power-packed and yet has a finish that is quite ethereal. I’d love to smoke a cigar with this in hand. Dark cacao nibs, vanilla, graphite, old leather, almond and figs feature in my tasting notes. The chocolate-based dessert is a stunning match for this.
The Tesseron cognac bottles are simple yet elegant designs, with the higher-end range doubling as decanters. They also come in a range of beautifully presented boxes, making them a considered choice for a celebration or as a generous gift.
