Fontanafredda

Fontanafredda is a historic winery located in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy, whose history is closely tied to that of Italy itself. When Fontanafredda was founded in 1858, the Italian peninsula was still a collection of independent states. The unification of Italy in 1861 was a major shift in European politics. Italy became a single, unified kingdom under a constitutional monarchy.

Vittorio Emanuele was the man who became the first king of newly unified Italy - and he happened to be the owner of the subject of our story - Fontanafredda. The land was part of his private estate, with a hunting lodge at its heart. Wines were being made in the region, and this became a personal passion of the new king as he set about establishing his own vineyards in the surrounding area.

Every story needs a love interest, and it happens that the king had a mistress - Rosa Vercellana, also known as “La Bela Rosina”. In a romantic twist in our tale, he gifted the property to her along with the title ‘Countess of Fontanafredda’. They had a long relationship, but after his death, ownership passed to his and Rosa's son, Emanuele Guerrieri, Count of Mirafiori, who expanded the winemaking operations significantly.

Fontanafredda lies near the town of Serralunga d’Alba, within the Langhe area of Piedmont. As well as Barolo wines, which are amongst the most prestigious reds in Italy, there are a wealth of other reasons to visit. The region is known as a foodie paradise. The white truffle, which can sell for $8000 a kilo, is an iconic part of the local cuisine; and visitors make a beeline for the region’s chocolate ‘gianduja’ - the hugely successful Ferrero brand is from here.

And if you’ve ever been in one of the Eataly stores on your travels - which are part food hall, part deli, part market - the Fontanafredda label is now owned by local Alba businessman Oscar Farinetti and his partners - he founded Eataly. Fontanafredda is also a major ‘wine tourism’ destination, with a historic village, four restaurants, and numerous accommodation options.

Farinetti invested in restoring the historic buildings, whilst improving environmental sustainability, and balancing traditional winemaking practices with innovation. Fontanafredda is now a certified organic winery, and their 120 hectares of vineyards are considered to be large for Barolo - where the average is 1–2 hectares. Their portfolio also contains wines such as Barbaresco, Barbera and Arneis - all of which are available at Glengarry.

The classic white grape of the region is Arneis - although there is a move towards a varietal you probably won’t have heard of, as bottles rarely make it out of Piedmont - that grape is Timorasso, and we will update you if we manage to import any of the label’s offering. The white wine you will find in store is Fontanafredda Roero Arneis “Val di Tana" DOCG 2022, has an aroma like smelling a basket of tree-ripened pears and apples, with a touch of citrus, almond meal and honeysuckle. Arneis, as a varietal, has a brisk acidity and here that highlights the juiciness and the chalky minerality. Dry, crisp and with enough silky texture to balance everything out.

Red wines are the heartbeat of Piedmont, and Glengarry stocks four versions made from the signature Nebbiolo grape. The wines of the town of Barbaresco are often an expression of Nebbiolo that are lighter than those from neighbouring Barolo. Starting with Fontanafredda Barbaresco DOC 2019, you’ll find a perfume filled with raspberry, orange peel, cranberry, incense and rose petal florals. The medium-bodied palate displays firm tannin and a fine balance of savoury and ripe fruit flavours.

Another wine with a more delicate touch is Fontanafredda Langhe Nebbiolo "Ebbio" DOC 2022. A translucent ruby red colour, it could easily take a chill and be served from the fridge. A soft, fresh bouquet shows violet, red plums and pomegranate, but the palate lets you know this is Nebbiolo, with supple tannins and a peppery finish.

Fontanafredda Barolo DOCG 2019 is perhaps the quintessential version of Nebbiolo. Aged for a minimum of 38 months, the elegance and complexity of their Langhe vineyards shines through. A deep ruby colour, with a splash of cherry, strawberry, blueberry and toasted spices. One to sit and savour, diving through the myriad flavours and textures. Black tea-soaked tannins are the hero again, framing the plush and tangy fruit.

Narrowing down to a specific area and terroir, Fontanafredda Barolo di Serralunga d'Alba DOCG 2019, is the most focussed of the Nebbiolo’s available. A Barolo with great aging potential - the coltish tannins give energy and structure to this opaque ruby-hued beauty. Complex layers of spice, earthy terracotta, pot pourri, green herbs and tobacco are swaddled in a robe of silken texture. Today, this is vibrant, youthful glassful, but it will undoubtedly gain more depth and opulence with every year that you can manage to keep your hands off it, in a dark cellar!

It isn’t all one grape in Piedmont, and Fontanafredda Barbera d'Alba Superiore “Papagena” DOC 2021 is a delicious introduction to one of the other picks. Dark fruit aromas - blackberry, plum and morello cherry - are mixed with distinctive mocha and orchid floral notes. Super dry to taste, with softer tannin than its Nebbiolo cousins. Toasted spice appears mid-palate as the purple fruit is carried on a flow of acidity. This one is good to go straightaway, and would be a characterful alternative to something like a Pinot Noir.