Get to Know 5 Pinots
Burgundy sounds more romantic than Pinot Noir, doesn’t it? Perhaps it’s the French connotation, or the oft-repeated quote said in a tavern: “landlord, some beans and your finest burgundy!”, or maybe it’s the origins of it all: Gregory of Tours said in 591 that the wine produced over those Burgundian hills was just as good as Falernian, the famed ancient Roman wine. High praise indeed. The ancient Roman equivalent of saying “it’s dope”, or something to that effect.
And yet Pinot Noir, the grape, extends far beyond the vineyards of Burgundy. The past century it feels as if it’s been on a mission to extend its thin-skinned, sensitive and terroir‑obsessed nature to cooler corners of the globe, everywhere. World domination by sensitivity, if you like. The irony is that Pinot doesn’t travel well -- like a stubborn elderly man minding his veggie garden, it absolutely hates to travel. Yet it lands where it belongs. And when it does land, well! There’s very few grapes that reflect terroir so well, down to the cellar the wine was laid in.
New Zealand Pinots tend to mean a few things: they’re bloody expressive, fruit driven, and they have a structure and elegance that certain other varietals (not naming names) miss. The grape’s ability to mutate easily and show site-specific nuance gives us an incredibly diverse range of styles, from floral and earth‑toned to intense and richly fruited.
It’s winter, and even Auckland is cold. In the spirit of that, here are five Pinot Noir bottles we’re backing this winter, each one has a distinct expression of place and craftsmanship. Plus, one emerging label that's already showing serious potential.
Emiliana Novas Gran Reserva Pinot Noir 2020 – Casablanca, Chile
Emiliana is South America’s flagship for organic and biodynamic winemaking. Their Novas Pinot is grown in the fog-cooled hills of Casablanca, where Pacific breezes help preserve fragrance and finesse. Expect ripe red fruit, a little cedar spice, warm earth, and fine tannins. Polished, but relaxed and quietly overachieving. This one will surprise you.
Lake Chalice ‘Raptor’ Pinot Noir 2023 – Marlborough
Lake Chalice has been part of the Marlborough fabric since the early 1980s. Fruit for the Raptor comes off Rapaura’s free-draining soils, fermented cool, then rested in French oak. Bright aromatics lead cherry, violet, raspberry with darker plum and a gentle chocolate note underneath. A clean, modern Pinot with shape and lift. Good with a bit of steak and butter if you’re so inclined, but equally at home at somewhere “black tie”.
Cambridge Road ‘Stargazer’ Natural Pinot Noir 2022 – Martinborough
Lance Redgwell’s Cirrus Vineyard, tucked alongside the Dry River, has been organically farmed for years, well before it was fashionable. Stargazer blends multiple clones, whole-bunch ferment and wild yeast resulting in a wine that’s mineral, delicately spiced, and refreshingly alive. A raw, honest Martinborough Pinot with depth and pulse.
Oraterra Pinot Noir 2023 – Martinborough
From the team behind some of Martinborough’s most respected wines comes this quietly confident new project. Wilco Lam’s at the helm (he spent ten years leading Dry River) and his trademark quiet focus on land, detail, and restraint is evident. The fruit is farmed organically and handled gently: wild ferment, large-format oak, no fining or filtration. Cherry blossom and fresh plum lead, supported by elegant tannin and calm structure. A new chapter with a lot of experience behind it.
Domaine Parent Bourgogne Côte d’Or 2020 – Burgundy, France
Anne Parent’s family has been making wine in Pommard since 1803. Her Côte d’Or Pinot is a study in clarity: red berries, dried florals, and that unmistakable line of limestone tension. Matured in neutral oak to preserve detail, it’s elegant, structured, and quietly expressive. It’s everything a Bourgogne should be. Feels thoughtful without being overly laboured. A beautiful quiet moment to be enjoyed.
One to Watch: 15 Minute Bottles ‘Test Pots’ Pinot Noir 2023 – Central Otago
From a winemaking couple working in Central Otago by day, 15 Minute Bottles is their own small project organic fruit from the Pisa Range. 70% whole bunch, a short, wild ferment and time in neutral oak. This third release under the Test Pots label is light-bodied, textural, and full of energy. A fresh, thoughtful take from a label that’s building momentum fast.
