Grapes of Champagne – A Blanc State of Mind
Early May, at our Jervois Road store, we had the pleasure of hosting a Champagne tasting, our first of the year. We had the opportunity to compare Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs Champagne against each other. One of our guests, David Walker Bell of Winefolio, wrote up a summary of the night for us.
I’m sat next to Aroha Jakicevich, the 4th generation looking after Glengarry. I’m reminded that this is the original property that started the Glengarry brand, when Josef Jakicevich applied, and was granted, one of the first (of only two) wine-sellers licences ever issued in Auckland for the green grocery that he had opened the previous year at the corner of Jervois Road and Blake Street. So, it’s fitting to see Aroha here tonight. Her smile, at seeing the family place full and buzzing, lights up the room.
They have put together a great team for events at Glengarry, with Nick, Jared and Zach working in tandem to deliver a fun, informative, seamless evening. I see that the calendar also has 'Jervois Supper Club' nights planned. The team will look to put together chefs and wine labels to create evenings where no single event will be the same.
Back to tonight. It’s a tasting comprised of Blanc de Blancs and Blanc de Noirs Champagnes; wines made from Chardonnay or Pinot Noir. It’s rare to have an actual "tasting" of Champagne where you can sit and compare vintages, winemaking technique, and grape expression side by side. It’s also a rare opportunity to enjoy exceptional vintage wines such as the prestigious Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 2006 and the limited release Bollinger PN VZ19.
We’re greeted with a glass of Drappier Champagne from magnum as the room fills up. On each table are artisanal cheeses to snack on as the evening progresses, and there’s not a seat to spare. The wine is poured in flights, beginning with a Drappier Zero Dosage NV and Charles Heidsieck Blanc de Blancs NV. The contrast between Chardonnay and Pinot Noir wines is immediately apparent, which is, kind of, the point.
The Drappier brand is a pioneer of Pinot Noir. They’re from the southeast of the Champagne region, and there is an obvious Burgundian edge. Oak is upfront and toasty, and there’s a hint of Chablis to the wine. A bouquet filled with cherries, stonefruit and apricot with a biscuity character and what seems to have an aged, golden character too. Charles Heidsieck is known for their stock of reserve wines, and this first wine is mostly from the 2012 vintage, but has 20 percent of reserve added. They just started making this wine in 2018, but it’s already a classic. Crisp, complex, and generous.
Whilst the next two are both Chardonnay-based wines, it’s probably the biggest contrast in pairings for the event. Delamotte Blanc de Blancs Vintage 2018 sits next to André Jacquart Experience Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru 2013. Delamotte is a sister brand to the top-end Salon label, sharing vineyards and facilities. A very exuberant, clean wine with high acidity giving a racy line through the palate and fantastic length to the finish. The Jacquart has a certain amount of funk to it on the bouquet. Marmite, onion skin and cheese are all mentioned as the crowd get into it. This is into ‘Grower’ expressions now, moving on from the big house styles, with real character. Again, a hint of Burgundy, with oak (they use those Aquaflex barrels) and a lees-y texture.
A pair of wines from the same label are up next. Henri Giraud Blanc de Craie NV and Henri Giraud Hommage au Pinot Noir. It’s refreshing to see modern packaging and labels that stand out on the shelf. In terms of value for money, these wines deliver; and the wines are terrific. The first has up to a third as reserve wine and has an abundance going on. Flavours of brioche, toast, crisp apple start you off, but then "pineapple lumps, green olive, hazelnuts" all feature in my notes! The Hommage au Pinot Noir is probably my favourite of the night. We are in rich Krug like (one of the prestigious big labels) territory now. Cherry pie, honey, marmite, elderflower, and baked pear Danish. Quite toasty with substantial barrel oak notes… this has a big personality.
No Champagne could be called an everyday wine, and let’s not forget that to most people a $50 dollar bottle of wine is a once-a-year purchase. So, tasting those two special headline wines forms quite the finale to the evening. Bollinger PN VZ19 is the fifth iteration in this range from the famous Champagne house and features 40 percent of fruit from Verzenay, hence the VZ designation this year. The nose is quite savoury, with an earthy, umami quality, but also apricot, lemon peel and Kirsch. Tight, with refreshing acidity and a lithe, supple length to the palate.
Charles Heidsieck Blanc des Millenaires 2006 has been slumbering and developing in bottle for a wonderful thirteen years before being disgorged. That lees influence is front and centre, adding complexity to the already opulent palate. Chamomile, tropical fruit, baked pastries. The epitome of a prestige cuvée. It’s smoky, toasty and quite gorgeous. Great persistence to the finish. A special bottle for a special occasion.
I’m looking forward to more nights at Jervois Road. This space is beautiful, full of people, and with wine being poured, there is a lot of potential. There are a few options like this opening across town, but this is the original. The future looks bright.
Find more tastings and events here, we hope to welcome you to one of our evenings soon.
